My Vacation In Calitri Italy 2000

My Vacation in Calitri - Going Home Again
Roberto Margotta Bongo

Thanks to a birthday gift from my children, I had the opportunity to visit the village of Calitri, Avellino, Italy in September 2000, the birthplace of my grandmother, Maria Antonia Margotta Bongo.

Not only was the trip to the old “hometown” nostalgic and fascinating, it was truly heartwarming to see the actual places and faces come to life that I had heard so much about. On many occasions, my grandma would tell us touching stories about family, history and struggles to survive. It was her way of expressing intense personal feelings about the home she had left behind. I looked forward to enjoying a wonderful vacation trip and discovering the memories and places that my dear Nonna once held so dear to her heart. Perhaps I could see for myself how Calitri had changed since she left.

On the first day, we found my grandmother’s house on Via Sotto Concezione 11 which she left in 1910 after experiencing a catastrophic Terremoto (earthquake). Before she left for America with children Pasquale, Guiseppe and Rosa, they lived in a make shift tent. No one has lived in the house since then. More damage occurred as a result of the earthquakes of 1930 and 1980 and that has made the existing structure even more precarious.

By chance on the first day, I happened to meet Nick DeNora and his father, Pasquale, from Buffalo who were also in Calitri on vacation at the same time I was. For dinner that night, I hooked up with the DeNoras and all of us went for pizza at the Manhattan Bar where the cook was a young mother who makes the finest pizzas in Calitri. Her children sat at our table and seemed genuinely amused by "li Merigan” devouring their mamma’s pizza The “hot” night spot in the village was Gulliver’s Bar which is located behind S. Canio’s Church. I did have a chance to personally visit Gulliver’s, Nick filled me in about this crowded place where one goes to see and be seen as well as to enjoy good spirits and interesting conversations.

After the first day, I spent the remaining time eating really good food at my cugino, Nazzereno Beltrami’s house. His wife, Angelina, could pass for the “best cook” in Calitri. Everything was homemade and fresh with a good mix of local fare including pastas, meats (lamb mostly), antipasto, salads, fruits and of course, dolce (sweets) with espresso. The hometown custom is to consume the larger meal around one o’clock in the afternoon known as “il pranzo” and a lighter meal “la cena” which is served around 8PM in the evening.

On another occasion, I tracked down the home of Michelangelo Fastiggi. Marlene Dunham of our website requested that I try to find the house where her grandfather, Michelangelo Fastiggi, was born in 1890. I did find the place and I sent her a photo so she can see “28 Vicolo San Michele” for herself.



I had the rare opportunity to see my grandmother’s church, the Chiesa S. Annunzita, which was built in the 1500’s. The altar was breathtaking as well as the beauty of the religious paintings were just as my grandmother had remembered. In the center of the church, several nuns were buried under the floor which was marked and identified.

Pasquale and I attended Mass at S. Immacolata Concezione that was built on the hill of S. Biagio after the 1694 Terremoto. We couldn’t understand why the 10AM Mass started early until we learned that the priest had to complete this Mass so he could walk as fast as possible to S. Canio (Calitri’s patron saint) to say the 11AM Mass at that Church. On this particular Sunday, Nick and I decided to climb the mountain to see the Chiesa del Calvario which is used only during Pasqua (Easter). We stopped at every Station of the Cross -- not to pray, but to catch our breath. At the very top of the hill, we reached the Chiesa and enjoyed an exceptional panorama of old Calitri, which is definitely a sight not to be missed.

Another day as I was relaxing on a bench, there appeared a funeral procession with most of the village people following behind the hearse carrying the casket. Out of respect, it seemed very natural for me to join in as they walked all the way to the cemetery (cimitero).

My great grandparents, Giuseppe Margotta and Maria DelPriore are buried in the Beltrami mausoleum at the cemetery. I noticed the Margotta gravesite didn’t have a marble headstone to mark their resting place so I had a stone engraved with their names to honor their memory.

There are no secrets within this small, medieval ancestral village as our presence was well known around town. Everyone is very friendly and they actually remembered our faces and names after just the first meeting. Whenever I went off alone to do something, my cousin knew exactly where I had been and what I had done. The walls seemed to have eyes and ears. I began to understand that people were not prying but that’s just the way it is when everyone knows who belongs to the names and families going back centuries.

Yes, the village has suffered the ravages of many earthquakes over the centuries but they overcome by following the collective experiences handed down through generations. They quickly join hands to get life back to normal as quickly as possible.

There is a deep and sincere interest in life amongst the villagers and it shows in a number of ways. I was very impressed by how they cared for each other when they met and talked to one another in the square. Families stay connected because they don’t have to drive miles to see each other. People here just walk from house to house to visit relatives and friends. Stores and markets are convenient. Quality food is available fresh off the farm or right out of the oven









Sundays are reserved for observing traditions dating back centuries…go to church, or the cemetery then dinner with relatives and friends. As a young boy growing up in an all-Italian neighborhood in Stamford; CT, I experienced the same Sunday routines but that was a long time ago I never realized my Italian heritage was such a part of me until I became an adult. We treated family members with respect so that cousins were like brothers and sisters and aunts and uncles were as close as my mother and father. We had respect for the elders, because of what they went through to get us where we are today.
Sometimes I wish I could relive the way it was but at least I can draw upon my memories.

For those who have visited the hometown on one occasion or for those who visit on a regular basis, I know you are familiar with my personal experiences. And, for those who may be thinking of going to Calitri one day or have never thought of making the trip, I hope my memories will stir your curiosity to see the hometown up close and to feel the history where our ancestors once lived and struggled.

Sample the food, walk the ancient narrow streets, visit the Churches, find the old family home or kiss long lost relatives. There are excellent hotel accommodations available where some English is spoken. Transportation arrangements can easily be made to tour around the neighboring region. You, your children or grandchildren will find the experience emotional as well as enriching. It’s definitely worth going home again.


Festa dell’Immacolata Concezione

The day is September 8 and its time for the festa in this little village. My cousin Nazzereno Beltrami, ex Sandaco (mayor) joined me in walking in the piazza. He knew so many people who respected him and greeted him and said we see your cousin from America (Il cugino da America) is what they called me.

The feast is in honor of the Madonna in conjunction with Immacolata Concezione. This church was built on a hill of St. Baggio after the earthquake of 1694. The church was opened on April 15, 1759, damaged by earthquake in 1980 and then rebuilt to its present state.

As people gather in the Piazza dela Repubblica, so did the society members, dressed in blue robes. They would start the procession with the other towns people following close behind. Aniello Basile, my cousins brother in law, Consigliere da Calitri lead the procession as the Grand Marshall. A brother in law of cousin Nazzereno, Giancarlo while marching stopped to shake my hand. Calitrani’s always remember a face, they make it their business to remember because they care about people. It seemed like all 6,000 inhabitants of the village were following behind the Madonna. Several society members were carrying the heavy statue through the streets. We all walked and joined in towards Il Centro, singing with the musicians.




The streets were lined with food stands and other stands sold music or toys. One stand had a pig roasting on display, being carved and eaten by the attendees. Music blared from the stands and the kiddie rides. At the bandstand, Massimo di Cataldo was playing pop music to the delight of all. The bandstand was set up in front of the old castle and the music continued to 1pm.

Late at night, was a wonderful display of fireworks in honor of the Madonna. They lit up the sky and excited thousands of birds who were perched in the trees. The weather was muggy during the day, but very cool at night, where one needed to wear a wind breaker or a sweater.

This is a time to honor the saint but to also spend time with friends and family. My wish is that all of you can one day visit Calitri and enjoy this feast.

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